Signet Rings: Now and Then
Signet rings, which date back to ancient times, have become a mark of personal distinction and individuality. These rings are gutsy and super stylish statement pieces that can be worn on any finger. So it’s not surprising that contemporary jewelers have continuously picked up on these standout pieces and re-imagine them with their own unique brand of engraving, size, shape, motifs and gemstones. Throughout history, signet rings took many forms and were designed in diverse materials ranging from bronze and gold, to hard stone or crystal intaglios with reverse carvings. These could be impressed on wax or clay used a signature to authentic documents. The signet as a seal continued throughout time, but this style also took on different roles, which included occupations, beliefs, hobbies, heraldry, classical and mythological subjects and great ancient pictorial scenes. Entwined initials of romantic couples or those representing family created a sentimental iteration of these rings. Signets were and still are engraved into gold or into hard stone intaglios, most often carnelian, bloodstone, onyx, agate and sardonyx then set into gold. Today’s collector is attracted to the mottos and imagery that have a personal meaning. Contemporary designers will custom monogram and also create one-of-a-kind shanks, accented by a client’s favorite stones. They have also been add their own messages, motifs, and even poetry. Whether authentic and antique, or with current and with modern stamp of style, signet rings deserve your seal of approval.
Castro Smith/Castro Smith
Master engraver and jeweler Castro Smith tells different tales throughout his evergrowing collection and one-of-kind signet rings. This Swallow and Hummingbird ring speaks to the swallow’s Victorian meaning for safe home, the romance of how these bird mate for life and the hummingbirds buzzing around creating happiness, detailed with tiny pink flowers that evoke optimism and renewal. The ring is handmade in yellow god with ceramic plate engravings and diamond eyes.
https://castrosmith.com/products/swallow-hummingbird-signet-1
Gwen Barba/Gwen Barba
The Ginkgo Signet is one of her newest in a series of floral signet rings that she has been creating since launching her collection. She explains, “The ginkgo is an ancient tree, much revered for its elegance and storied resilience, representing longevity and the duality of life. This signet serves as a small personal reminder that both lightness and darkness are essential threads in the tapestry of a rich and meaningful existence.”
Kim Dunham/Kim Dunham
Working with private clients on telling their very personal and unique stories, Kim has created countless images in engraved and relieve patterns that weave the narratives together. Here is one she has a deep affinity and says, “How I love this golden winged lion. She’s freedom and courage. Floating through the clouds communing with the heavens. Such a divine mystical creature. A perfect example of what our studio calls a power symbol, there’s a good bit of symbolism and meaning in this single image.”
https://www.instagram.com/p/C4tFdsvRQ8c/?hl=en
Emily Hirsch/Talon
“The Talon Zodiac line jewelry features 12 signet rings engraved with astrological images inspired by the search for meaning in the night sky.” Says Emily. Each heirloom piece of jewelry takes influence from astronomical mythology and imagery, to inspire and celebrate the spirit of its wearer.”
https://talonjewelry.com/collections/rings/products/gold-zodiac-signets?variant=32538212270159
Nite: In the opening shot, Emily Hirsh from Talon mixes her contemporary intaglio, crafted fro Venetian glass cast in in and features her Dusk Dragonfly motif. This is worn next to her Scorpio ring from her Zodiac collection
Diane Richardson/The Gold Hatpin
A dealer for nearly 40 years, Diane Richardson has had many signet rings pass through her hands and worn on her own fingers. This antique version, as Diane explains “is particularly alluring with its oval face for engraving and dimensional entwining snakes that comprise the shank.” Snakes have multiple meanings of enduring love, rebirth and renewal.
Shari Cohen/Seal & Scribe
Shari Cohen masterfully reinvigorates Georgian and Victorian glass and hard stone intaglios, creating modern 18K gold mountings following the shapes and meaning of the found objects. Here, she takes an antique clear glass seal, which displays two hearts, bound together, following the lines of the piece and creating the ring which has a ruby surround and is backed with mother of pearl tablet. “The motto, ‘Separate But Not Disunited’ speaks to two people in love perhaps living in a long distance relationship, or a situation where one partner travels often. It can also be interpreted as united in their eternal love for one another. It could also relate to a parent and their child who is growing into adulthood and leaving the nest.” Shari explains.
Samuel Mee/The Antique Ring Boutique
Samuel Mee has curated some of the best antique rings for his website and his roster of clientele who see him by appointment. He has an array of signet rings within his collection including the Victorian signet ring, set with a 2.28 carat, cabochon bloodstone. “Bloodstone is a dark green jasper marked with a spatter of bright red and has been a popular gemstone for over 2000 years. The bloodstone is set in an 18K yellow gold rub-over setting. Foliate metal work depicting leaves decorate the shoulders of this ring, flows through to a split band,” circa 1880, UK.
Megan Thorne/Megan Thorne
The uber talented engagement ring designer who finds inspiration in antique jewelry, French and Venetian lace and embroidery and nature inspired motifs has recently explanded her ring selection to include a classic signet style. “It is in keeping with the feeling of our designs, sculptural yet soft, with a nod to historic architectural lines and the charm of hand engraving. The weight of this 18K gold ring is so pleasing, you’ll grow to treasure its feel on your hand.” Megan explains.
https://meganthorne.com/products/vieira-signet-ring
Samantha Jackson/Heavenly Vices
“Inspired by the engravings on my Victorian-era love tokens set into modern bezels, this Health and Prosperity 14K gold signet ring is one of the first of my original designs for my Reimagined Collection,” Samantha explains. “The shank of the ring are engraved with relief wheat sheaves, which, as symbols of a successful harvest, represent prosperity and abundance.”
https://heavenlyvicesfinejewelry.com/products/health-and-prosperity-ring?_pos=1&_sid=baf8292dd&_ss=r
Thea Miller/Dru. Jewelry
Thea’s wit is seen in what she has named the ‘Don’ ring, a reinvention of the rings we saw while watching films such as The Godfather, Goodfellas and the hit HBO series, The Sopranos. “I was inspired by the iconic pinky ring but have mixed the traditional style with a modern edge,” she explains. This one is 14K yellow gold with a center of .50 TCW of diamonds.
Matthew Wildsmith/Matthew Wildsmith Jewellery
This Victorian 18K signet ring’s head is crafted with a hexagon shaped carnelian engraved with Initials ED. The shanks is comprised of two court bands. It features an original hallmark and maker’s mark and is circa 1880. The shape is unique and the letters are in keeping with the engraving of the time. It is a fine example of the 19th century signet rings but can easily be worn with comtemporary
jewelry and fashion. If you are lucky enough to possess these initials, or one is yours and one your significant other or some other loved one, they it’s the type of ring you should snap up right away.
Victorian 18ct Gold and Carved Carnelian Signet Ring
Jess Klein/ Bondeye
This Textured Signet Ring in 14K gold and rich green malachite is both on trend and timeless. Malachite and other hard stones have been the face of signet since antiquity and have been brought back to life in the 21st century. Jess incorporates other hardstones such as Tiger’s Eye and Onyx into her bold oval signets and says, “The malachite is really striking, with a feeling of optimism and happier times to come and can be worn in a daily rotation.”
https://bondeyejewelry.com/products/green-signet-ring
Lindley Grey/ Lindley Grey
A eye for minimalism and a streamlined approach to design that is ultra wearable and beautifully deigns, Lindley has created a classic signet ring amplified by a striking flush set black diamond triangle in recycled 14k yellow gold. Says Lindley, “Athough this can be worn on the ring or middle finger, the proportions of it make it the perfect pinky ring”.
https://www.lindleygray.com/product-page/foundation-signet-black-diamond
Coomi Bhasin/ Coomi Jewels
This 20K Indo Greek Coin Ring with diamond accents is Coomi’s take on a signet ring. “I often create pieces around objects from antiquity and this Indo-Greek coin
called for a bold gold ring that had the feeling of an ancient signet ring.”
20K Antiquity Indo Greek Coin Ring
