CONVERSATIONS

Marie Cabirou/Marie Mas, France: From Jewelry’s Shining Stars: The Next Generation, 45 Visionary Women Designers (ACC Artbooks, July 2024)

In her own words

“I started my career as an intern for Christian Dior, for the costume jewelry studio. Then they hired me, and I worked there for a few years before launching my own brand, which I built around the concept of movement. My jewels come to life when worn: the diamonds popout of the rings, the stones flip to show another color, and the engagement rings get linked together.”

What is your process?

“I always start with an idea of a technique, or a concept, or a movement that I get obsessed with. Then, I generally work in parallel with drawings and mockups in very different materials. Every collection is different. For one, I played with brass chains and glue to find the perfect shapes, proportions, and balance between rigidity and softness. For other collections, it was paper or ceramic mock-ups—anything that will help me to develop an idea without restriction.With drawings, you tend to end up with something quite expected, whereas if you work with different mediums freely, it can make space for happy accidents and unexpected shapes. It gives you a different perspective and can lead you to something more unique.”

Swinging Earrings

What is your favorite piece in your collection?

“The Dancing Open Ring: it’s one of the most magical pieces. It looks like it’s floating on each side of the finger. On one side, there is a marquise diamond; on the other side, a line of six purple stones in a gradient of color and shape, from round to a thin oval. The stones are set on articulated arms, which allow them to move and switch sides, showing a second line of stones in a gradient of blue, from dark to light.The ring keeps moving with your hand and it feels like it’s living with you.”

Dancing Open RIng