Antique Jewels that Turned up The NYC Summer Heat
On most weekends I can be found madly scouring bins at flea markets for that once in a lifetime find or ogling the pieces on displays in the finest of antique jewelry shops—the type you would have to empty your bank account to afford. I am an equal opportunity jewelry fan.
During the winter months, I duck into the various antique shows in and around the New York area— to warm up from Manhattan’s deep freeze. I rarely come home empty handed. In fact, my hand usually sports a new ring or bracelet dipping down from my wrist.
These past few days I have been staking out the jewels at The New York Antique and Watch Show’s summer edition at the Metropolitan Pavilion in Manhattan—the perfect escape from scorching near 100 degrees temperatures that we have been experiencing. Yet, inside the air-conditioning was pumped up to sub zero temperature and some of the jewels, which were steeped deeply in history and provenance gave me chills.
Although, I am all for advising how to find the jewel of your dreams and to ensure that it is in it’s original condition, an authentic antique or period piece as well as figuring out a way to purchase it, there are times when I discover pieces, which are so rare and unique in their character and technique, I just want to share them. These are pieces of museum quality, expert craftsmanship and ingenuity of design, representative of the period in which they were created and relevant for today’s collector. I was overjoyed and also a bit tempted to empty my 401K when found quite a number of these jewels during this past weekend. Some signed, others exceptional examples of their time, still others highly imaginative and tongue-in-cheek. Some French, some British and others, American, and all reflecting different ages. Here are six of my favorites from the show.
1-The Victorian Era with it’s three different periods of joyous and sentimental, dark and somber and playful and whimsical affected American jewelry as well as British design. Corset styles were all tied up in the fashion of the day and jewelers recreated them in rings and hinged cuff bracelets. But this is the first I’ve seen of a perfectly in tact corset shaped locket. It is American made in 14K yellow with rose gold bodice, bound with pearls and turquoise forget me nots. Not shown—a little secret compartment in the back for photos. Oh so naughty and nice. Circa 1860. At S.J. Shrubsole.
2-The Art Nouveau period with it’s experimental and exuberant mix of colors, textures, metals and gems created some of the most imaginative and ingenious jewels. This piece signed EB for Edgar Bense is no exception. It has all the qualities of a three-dimensional painting, framed with piqué a jour enameled leaves and three en-tremblant water lilies and a center stone of a marquise shaped Australian opal. In platinum topped gold with old mine and rose cut diamond accents, circa1900, this piece is available at Aaron Faber Gallery
(see opening shot)
3-This collection of 12 engraved lapis rings with all the signs of the zodiac is museum worthy although I was quite happy the owner and dealer Nicholas Harris brought it to the show—and allowed me to touch, try on and take photos of all of the rings, which I could not do if it was locked behind a showcase where pictures are not allowed. Trying to get Harris to talk about the collection was another story although he did give me the history of my second favorite pieces he featured (coming soon in another article). But sometimes playing with the pieces and a photo is worth more than the descriptive words.
4-I spent quite a bit of time with this flexible bracelet of graduating rectangular cuts of chalcedony, thinly bezel set between chased gold and turquoise floral stations from the Georgian era. It was on my wrist numerous times for photographs (read: I just had to try it one more time) and in different positions to get the best shot in show lighting. It’s also in excellent condition and designed with the impeccable quality of a signed piece. You can find this harmonious crafted jewel at Jacob Estate Jewelry
5- Have you ever tried to find day to night earrings from the Georgian era with the character and personality of that period —when jewels sparkled by candlelight? If you have been searching but have bee unable to locate a pair, which are both comfortable and in excellent condition, I found them this weekend at Lucy Verity for you to set your gaze upon or purchase if they haven’t been snapped up already. The bottom pendants unhook to wear the tops during the day and the entire earring in the evenings. These are crafted in rose cut diamonds in silver topped gold that flicker faintly yet dance with the light. Lucy knows how to choose well-curated jewels and she also had a few smaller pairs for those who are interested in trying different lengths and sizes
6-Chains have been circulating around in antique jewelry from the Georgian through the Art Deco periods—all have been popular over recent years. This particular French enamel chain from the late 19th century is a personal favorite of mine and one that I am coveting as I write. Ultra long and enameled in a pale blue and white, it’s detail and design in the gold of of the links offers enduring style. A chain that can be worn alone or mixed up with chains from other centuries, it can also be worn with colors such as more tonal turquoise and moonstone or a pop of ruby or garnet. Check out Lenore Dailey who is the queen of the antique chain gang.
